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Pop And Click Remover

#1 User is offline   waldojim 

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 12:54 AM

SO - not everything I own is perfect. :P

Now that I have that out of the way, here is the issue... and a short one for once!

I have, what I would consider to be an excellent audio source, an Akai AP-100 turntable with a Shure M97XE cartridge feeding an Akai AA-A25 amp. This, in turn, I would like to record on my PC. Currently (as I don't have anything else handy right now), I am using the internal sound card on the motherboard - a "24 bit" sound card (I don't buy that it has the filtering needed to REALLY qualify, but neither here nor there). The sound is recording brilliantly in Audacity, this is true of either Linux or Windows. Very impressed either way, though the system does seem to respond better in Linux.

Now, even though I have a solid recording path - not all of my vinyl is in perfect (or even near perfect) shape. I was under the impression that Audacity had some excellent de-noise/pop/click filters. After trying to tweak it a bit, I have to say... not impressed. When I finally get a setting that really deals with them, it destroys my actual recording... rather than manually editing EVERY pop out myself, do you guys know of a GOOD program that will make life a bit easier, and still leave the recording intact?
"There is a cult of ignorance in the United States, and there always has been. The strain of anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding its way through our political and cultural life, nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that 'my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge.'" -- Isaac Asimov
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#2 User is offline   coastie65 

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 08:04 AM

Hey wj, Don't know if this is helpful or not, but here it is: http://www.unterzube...%20to%20cd.html
Coolermaster HAF 912 Case....ASUS P8Z68-VPro MOBO.....Intel Core i7 2600k Sandy Bridge ( 4.4 Ghz ).... Gelid Tranquillo cooler.... Samsung 830 256 GB SSD.... Primary HDD- WD 1TB Caviar Black SATA III /6.0 .... SECONDARY HDD - WD 1TB Caviar Black SATA II / 3.0....8Gb GSkill Ripjaws Series X 1600 Mhz Memory....Corsair AX850w PSU....EVGA GTX 680 Super Clocked Signature 2 Gb GDDR5 Video Card....Samsung CD/DVD RW, DL, DVD-Ram, w/ Lightscribe Optical Drive....Samsung SyncMaster 2243BWX 22" Monitor..... Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit OS


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#3 User is online   smax013 

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 12:10 PM

But aren't pops and clicks part of the joy of vinyl? ;) Don't you want to preserve that joy in the digital world? :D
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#4 User is offline   waldojim 

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 12:35 PM

View Postsmax013, on 15 April 2011 - 12:10 PM, said:

But aren't pops and clicks part of the joy of vinyl? ;) Don't you want to preserve that joy in the digital world? :D


If it were up to me, I would be on Ebay buying an SAE 5000, and DBX expander. With the two of them, I can viriually eliminate the pops, and have a VERY nice sounding recording... but the wife has her say as well, and they typically get up to about 250-300 each.

Most of my music plays pop free, and that is how vinyl is meant to be heard. I know that many people think that the noise is why people listen to records, but it isn't. It's the life, the warm sound, the highs that don't have the harsh digitized sound to them, the uncompressed nature of the sound (look into how much range compression is used on CD's!)... Vinyl just sounds different. Most of the time it sounds far superior.

Some days, though, you end up with vinyl that has been damaged, or just won't clean up. I have a couple of those. It would appear that my Pink Floyd album was damaged in the last move... about the first 30-45 seconds of the first track has a very consistent little bastard of a pop... annoying the hell out of me.
"There is a cult of ignorance in the United States, and there always has been. The strain of anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding its way through our political and cultural life, nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that 'my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge.'" -- Isaac Asimov
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#5 User is offline   mjd420nova 

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 07:05 PM

Working with the sound studio, you should be able to get rid of the clicks and pops. I have seen some little software packages, the mfgr slips me now, that were written just for cleaning up vinyl original media. I haven't tried anything other than the sound studio as it does all I need it to. I have some reel to reel tapes that were made from other tapes but had some interference (radar sweeps) on the tracks. I was able to eliminate them and it worked very well on all of the vinyl to get rid of WOW and flutter but haven't tackled any pops yet, haven't found any yet but they shouldn't present much trouble. The easiest part is getting the level below the average without subtracting any content.
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#6 User is offline   waldojim 

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 10:26 PM

View Postmjd420nova, on 15 April 2011 - 07:05 PM, said:

Working with the sound studio, you should be able to get rid of the clicks and pops. I have seen some little software packages, the mfgr slips me now, that were written just for cleaning up vinyl original media. I haven't tried anything other than the sound studio as it does all I need it to. I have some reel to reel tapes that were made from other tapes but had some interference (radar sweeps) on the tracks. I was able to eliminate them and it worked very well on all of the vinyl to get rid of WOW and flutter but haven't tackled any pops yet, haven't found any yet but they shouldn't present much trouble. The easiest part is getting the level below the average without subtracting any content.


And now I find a reason to own a Mac...
"There is a cult of ignorance in the United States, and there always has been. The strain of anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding its way through our political and cultural life, nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that 'my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge.'" -- Isaac Asimov
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#7 User is offline   MLStrand56 

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 09:20 AM

[/quote]

If it were up to me, I would be on Ebay buying an SAE 5000, and DBX expander. With the two of them, I can viriually eliminate the pops, and have a VERY nice sounding recording... but the wife has her say as well, and they typically get up to about 250-300 each.

[/quote]

I am an audiophile & would like to add my 2₵ here. 1st. I own almost every retail click & pop remover ever made, including the SAE 5000. If you took a razor blade & carved wagon-wheel type spokes gouges on the record, the SAE 5000 will remove that type of SEVERE pops. Be VERY Careful when using it, because it can (& WILL, if not used judiciously) grind your music up like hamburger.

My 1000+ LP's are all in nearly mint condition, so they don't need a lot of processing. When recording them I process them with (1) Burwen TNE-7000 [Transcient Noise Eliminator], & Burwen DNF-1201A [Dynamic Noise Filter]. The TNE-7000 does a Wonderful job of removing 99% of the general scratchiness found on LP's (even New ones). The DNF-1201 is a Frequency & Level Dependent Variable Band Pass Filter. That sounds like a mouthfull, but it just means that the 1201 limits the hi freq. output, when there are no hi freq's on the input. Also, when the music is Loud, the 1201 opens up & lets all the music through. The 1201 is quickly & easily calibrated to each LP you wish to record. Both the 7000 & 1201A are Tape Loop processors. I run mine daisy-chained, but can simply turn the music around at the 7000 by using the Monitor switch. Both Burwen processors occasionally come up for Auction on E-bay. The 7000 is the most highly sought after click & pop remover, & the regularily sell used, for more than they did new. The 1201 can be picked up for around $50.

If Tape-Loop processors are to complicated for you, then you could use the Garrard MRM-100 [Music Recovery Module]. It is inserted between the turntable & a HI-Level (AUX) input on the pre-amp. Good luck finding one that still works. The MRM has it's own phono ='ization ckt, which is why its output goes to a HI-Level input on the pre-amp. I don't know how accurate that phono EQ ckt. is.

There were several other "click & pop" Kits avail. years ago. They're not really worth mentioning, because the quality of the kit, depends on the skill level of the assembler.

ALL click & pop removers work Best with a 4-CH capable (20Hz to 40KHz) phono cartridge. The Audio Technica AT-20SS ($250 in 1978) & Grado Prestige GOLD ($100 - $2000 NEW on E-bay) both cover the required frequency range. Why 20Hz to 40KHz? It's because ALL click & pop removers Analyze the wave forms from 20Khz to 40Kz. That's above human hearing limits, BUT a click/pop has a HUGE amount of energy in that frequency range. When the processor sees high energy in that band width, it shuts off the output for the few mili-second duration of the click/pop. Since it's only a few miliseconds, you don't hear the "hole". Some processors "claim" to fill in the hole with music from the miliseconds Before the click/pop. That "claim" has never been verified.

Now, moving on the the dbx expander. I still own the Original (& BEST) 3BX. I've also owned the 4bx (when it was 1st. introduced). I currently use a 5bx Range Expander. ALL dbx expanders are designed to make Loud music LOUDER & Quiet music QUIETER (thereby increasing the dynamic range of the music). The Original 3BX (but NOT the series II or III) expander was a TRUE Stereo expander. It had 2 independent range expander ckts. The later series II & III Summed the L+R signal to control BOTH Voltage Controlled Amp ckts. The Orignal 3BX can handle loud music in one CH. & soft music in the other CH. The series II & III expanders can NOT do that!!! Range expanding works Great for Listening to LP's. BUT if you're recording the expanded music to tape, you can Very Easily exceed the dynamic range of the recording window. That is due to the inherent limitations of the tape itself & to some degree the quality of the recording head.

Since you're recording to your PC, you don't have to worry about exceeding the dynamic range of the computer. ALL sound cards have a greater dynamic range than LP's (even range expanded LP's).

With careful processing I am able to record LP's to Cass. with 'nearly' the dynamic range & clarity of CD's. My recording chain is: nearly mint LP, Audio Technica AT-20SS (or Grado Prestige Gold), Yamaha PX-3 turntable, dbx CX-1 pre-amp (phono EQ ckt), Burwen TNE-7000, Burwen DNF-1201A, dbx 5bx, dbx 150X (professional 3-Ch compander), Nakamichi DRAGON, Maxell UDXL II or Maxell Metal cass.

I hope this helps you.

MLStrand
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