Networking 5 Pc's Hardwired W/wireless
#1
Posted 15 April 2012 - 05:04 PM
Little info on the network, Motorola modem, wired to a netgear wireless router to a dlink router from there its wired to a netgear hub. The (hub1) feeds 2 pc's in the shop by separate ethernet cables. Another ethernet cable from (hub1) feeds another (hub2) at the counter, (Hub2) feeds a cc terminal and 2 pc's.
I tried to run the hard wired router first, no internet in any of the pc's??? I didn't go into the router to see the settings.
Im looking to upgrade the routers with one, but still run 1 or 2 hubs. I also want to secure the wireless for the customers.
Any suggestions??
My background on computers, know enough to be dangerous.
Thanks
Joe
#2
Posted 15 April 2012 - 07:27 PM
You only want ONE router to have DHCP enabled. In your case, I suggest leaving DHCP enabled on the netgear router, but disabled on the dlink (set it to bridge mode if you can). Also, on the netgear, I suggest setting up a guest network for customers if it has that option, and then securing the main network (for internal use; I STRONGLY recommend using WPA2-AES personal encryption, or if you have older devices use WPA/WPA2 combo mode, and use WEP as a last resort).
This post has been edited by LiveBrianD: 15 April 2012 - 07:28 PM
Need a Windows ISO image?
#3
Posted 15 April 2012 - 07:54 PM
Connect your modem directly to a quality wired router. I suggest Linksys Small business models. Then feed one port off to the WAN port on a separate wireless router. Do this to ensure your customers cannot directly see your traffic. You will have to cut off access from the customers network in the FIRST router. Do this to secure your own network. Then use direct connections (as your wiring allows) to connect from other locations directly back to your main router. You don't need any other hubs or switches, unless your wiring doesn't allow for direct connections. If you DO connect that way, do not use the WAN port on any other hub or switch.
Also, set router number one to use 192.168.0.x for the main network, and set the second router to a MANUAL 192.168.0.100 ip for the wan port, and use a 192.168.1.x network for the customers. Then DMZ the second router so that your primary doesn't try to build goofy rules for it.
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#4
Posted 16 April 2012 - 01:32 AM
How bout this, I tried using the hard wired router first, modem into the wan port of the dlink, and the Wireless into a lan port of the dlink wired router and a ethernet cable from dlink lan port to hub1. Entire network went down.
There are 2 ip addresses, the dlink hard wired router starts with 180 and the wireless 192.
One of the shop pc's that cannot be remotely taken over and wouldn't do any window updates also ran very slow, I reloaded windows xp pro, still wouldn't do updates and would only go on certain web sites still no remote take over. Moved the connection from the hub1 to the dlink wired router in a lan port, no change. Moved it to the wireless router lan port, was like a new pc, fast, did updates but cannot be seen in the network because of the different ip address.
I would like to replace the wired router, im green on the programing on the router. DHCP is what im confused on.
Thanks for the help!
Joe
LiveBrianD, on 15 April 2012 - 07:27 PM, said:
You only want ONE router to have DHCP enabled. In your case, I suggest leaving DHCP enabled on the netgear router, but disabled on the dlink (set it to bridge mode if you can). Also, on the netgear, I suggest setting up a guest network for customers if it has that option, and then securing the main network (for internal use; I STRONGLY recommend using WPA2-AES personal encryption, or if you have older devices use WPA/WPA2 combo mode, and use WEP as a last resort).
#5
Posted 16 April 2012 - 01:43 AM
Im green when it comes to the programing of the routers, not sure what DMZ is? Is there a article or video that you would recommend to read/watch?
Thanks for your help
Joe
waldojim, on 15 April 2012 - 07:54 PM, said:
Connect your modem directly to a quality wired router. I suggest Linksys Small business models. Then feed one port off to the WAN port on a separate wireless router. Do this to ensure your customers cannot directly see your traffic. You will have to cut off access from the customers network in the FIRST router. Do this to secure your own network. Then use direct connections (as your wiring allows) to connect from other locations directly back to your main router. You don't need any other hubs or switches, unless your wiring doesn't allow for direct connections. If you DO connect that way, do not use the WAN port on any other hub or switch.
Also, set router number one to use 192.168.0.x for the main network, and set the second router to a MANUAL 192.168.0.100 ip for the wan port, and use a 192.168.1.x network for the customers. Then DMZ the second router so that your primary doesn't try to build goofy rules for it.
#6
Posted 16 April 2012 - 02:51 PM
Need a Windows ISO image?
#7
Posted 20 April 2012 - 07:09 AM
#8
Posted 20 April 2012 - 09:03 AM
LiveBrianD, on 16 April 2012 - 02:51 PM, said:
WRONG. You don't want customers on the same network. You want them on their own network, with their own IP pool. This helps to build SIMPLE firewall rules that keep them off the company network.
You set one router to assign something like 192.168.1.x addresses to the business, starting at 192.168.1.100 (this leaves the first 100 open). SET the second routers wan port manually to 192.168.1.10 and connect back to the first. Then set the IP range to 192.168.100.x using 192.168.100.100 as the first assigned IP. Then BLOCK all incoming traffic from 192.168.1.x. Once you do that, build an EXCEPTION for traffic from the other router. 192.168.1.1. This way, only traffic from the internet world can be passed on to the business machines, and NOTHING from the local customers is allowed on the business network.
There are other ways of doing this, but this works out quite easy to remember and maintain.
I suggest any of Cisco/Linksys' small business products. For the wired router, use the RVS4000 or similar, for the wireless use either the RV110W or RV120W.
This post has been edited by waldojim: 20 April 2012 - 09:07 AM
Lenovo W520 CTO Intel i7-2620m, 8GB Patriot ram @ 1333Mhz, Nvidia Quadro 1000m with 2GB GDRR3, Plextor M3 256GB SSD, 1080P wide color display, Windows 8 Pro
Media Center: Intel Core i5 760 @ 3.1Ghz, 4GB DDR3, Corsair GS600PSU, EVGA Geforce 550ti, EVGA P55 SLI, 3x 1TB raid 5, 1x 1TB boot drive, Windows 8 Pro, Win TV 950(USB), Pioneer BR.
Server: AMD Phenom X4 945 @ 3.0Ghz, MSI 790FX-GD70, 16gb ddr3 RAM @ 1333mhz, 2TB Seagate HDD, 64GB Patriot SSD, Asus Silent Gefore 210
The Green machine: AMD Sempron 145EE Unlocked and OC'd to 4.1Ghz, Gigabyte GD970A-DS3, 8GB ram @ 1600mhz, Nvidia 550Ti, Thermaltake BlueOrb, Antec EW385
Samsung Galaxy Nexus, Paranoid Android 4.2 Rom http://www.speedtest...d/315465831.png
#9
Posted 20 April 2012 - 09:08 AM
crazy4laptops, on 20 April 2012 - 07:09 AM, said:
With more than a few machines, I would agree. If there are only one or two machines on each hub though, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Lenovo W520 CTO Intel i7-2620m, 8GB Patriot ram @ 1333Mhz, Nvidia Quadro 1000m with 2GB GDRR3, Plextor M3 256GB SSD, 1080P wide color display, Windows 8 Pro
Media Center: Intel Core i5 760 @ 3.1Ghz, 4GB DDR3, Corsair GS600PSU, EVGA Geforce 550ti, EVGA P55 SLI, 3x 1TB raid 5, 1x 1TB boot drive, Windows 8 Pro, Win TV 950(USB), Pioneer BR.
Server: AMD Phenom X4 945 @ 3.0Ghz, MSI 790FX-GD70, 16gb ddr3 RAM @ 1333mhz, 2TB Seagate HDD, 64GB Patriot SSD, Asus Silent Gefore 210
The Green machine: AMD Sempron 145EE Unlocked and OC'd to 4.1Ghz, Gigabyte GD970A-DS3, 8GB ram @ 1600mhz, Nvidia 550Ti, Thermaltake BlueOrb, Antec EW385
Samsung Galaxy Nexus, Paranoid Android 4.2 Rom http://www.speedtest...d/315465831.png
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