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Dell Laptop Immediately Shuts Down When I Unplug Power Cord....

#21 User is offline   Dellinsp531 

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 05:13 AM

Here is something to try before getting new battery.

You might try to drain the battery to fully empty. Than charge it.

Start the computer and press a key to get into the bios. Unplug the power cord and leave the computer on until it turns off. Since the bios uses less power, it should stay on for sometime.

If it turns off in a few seconds, than it seems battery is failing.

If it stays on for several minutes before turning off, than let it drain full by repeating the process. After that try charging it and see if it holds a charge. If it holds charge, than you are all set. If not, than try new battery.
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#22 User is offline   walleyeshark 

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 06:49 AM

Well, I tried to do the "bios" trick and same thing, she shutdown immediately after I unplugged it. I guess I'll have to try a new battery but it seems kind of strange that everything states that the battery is ok and working fine! I'll order one today and keep ya posted...TY for all the help!!!!
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#23 User is offline   compnovo 

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 09:19 AM

View Postwalleyeshark, on 12 June 2012 - 12:35 PM, said:

In my mind, even if the battery was dying, or even dead, my laptop wouldn't shutdown so fast after unplugging the power cord.

I've been following this thread, and it's clear that you either have a dead battery or one with faulty internal circuitry (which would explain why the OS is showing a full charge) that is as good as dead. When you have a "dead" battery your laptop will not boot and will shut down immediately when the external power is removed, exactly what you've been describing. Amazon is terrific when it comes to warranties so hopefully you'll be able to get a replacement.
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#24 User is offline   mjd420nova 

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 12:00 PM

From the discription of the fault and logical process to narrow down the failure, this points to one fault. The connector that the AC adapter plugs into has a small switch that switches the AC adapter output to provide power to run the unit AND charge the battery (if it needs it) When this switch gets jammed, from forceful insertion or pushed against something while plugged in, this cam also force traces on the PCB off the board and breaking the connection. The unit works fine when plugged in and the battery showes 100% so it works fine. Battery connections wouldn't be suspect if the charge shows 100%. SOme units have a small auxillary board and others, the circuit is part of the MOBO. Good luck. Get a skilled tech to check out the problem.
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#25 User is offline   compnovo 

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 01:59 PM

View Postmjd420nova, on 13 June 2012 - 12:00 PM, said:

From the discription of the fault and logical process to narrow down the failure, this points to one fault. The connector that the AC adapter plugs into has a small switch that switches the AC adapter output to provide power to run the unit AND charge the battery (if it needs it) When this switch gets jammed, from forceful insertion or pushed against something while plugged in, this cam also force traces on the PCB off the board and breaking the connection. The unit works fine when plugged in and the battery showes 100% so it works fine. Battery connections wouldn't be suspect if the charge shows 100%. SOme units have a small auxillary board and others, the circuit is part of the MOBO. Good luck. Get a skilled tech to check out the problem.

I consider mjd420nova the electronics expert on this forum so I would go with his recommendation, and I'll back out of the thread.
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#26 User is offline   mjd420nova 

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 03:28 PM

View Postcompnovo, on 13 June 2012 - 01:59 PM, said:

View Postmjd420nova, on 13 June 2012 - 12:00 PM, said:

From the discription of the fault and logical process to narrow down the failure, this points to one fault. The connector that the AC adapter plugs into has a small switch that switches the AC adapter output to provide power to run the unit AND charge the battery (if it needs it) When this switch gets jammed, from forceful insertion or pushed against something while plugged in, this cam also force traces on the PCB off the board and breaking the connection. The unit works fine when plugged in and the battery showes 100% so it works fine. Battery connections wouldn't be suspect if the charge shows 100%. SOme units have a small auxillary board and others, the circuit is part of the MOBO. Good luck. Get a skilled tech to check out the problem.

I consider mjd420nova the electronics expert on this forum so I would go with his recommendation, and I'll back out of the thread.



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#27 User is offline   walleyeshark 

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 04:21 PM

Well, a big TY to y'all as you have helped me with many an issue over the years!!! I'm no "techie" by any means but by following all of your directions and listening to your input, I've "out done" myself!! Hey Mjd, I read what you said about having a pro look at it but is that "small switch" something I could try fixing myself????
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#28 User is offline   coastie65 

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 04:35 PM

View Postwalleyeshark, on 13 June 2012 - 04:21 PM, said:

Well, a big TY to y'all as you have helped me with many an issue over the years!!! I'm no "techie" by any means but by following all of your directions and listening to your input, I've "out done" myself!! Hey Mjd, I read what you said about having a pro look at it but is that "small switch" something I could try fixing myself????


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#29 User is offline   LiveBrianD 

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 05:05 PM

I also had to completely disassemble a laptop before... that sure was a PITA. Lots of tiny screws, ribbon connectors, etc. Even SFF desktops are a pain, with the limited space to work. At times, I am SO glad that my desktop is nice and big.
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#30 User is offline   walleyeshark 

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 05:07 PM

That's cool...I was kinda kidding anyway. I don't think I have the ability to do something like that....I'll probably start with a new battery and move on to the "pro tech" if the battery doesn't fix the issue....
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#31 User is offline   LiveBrianD 

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 05:09 PM

Yeah, I have to suspect the battery itself here.
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#32 User is offline   mjd420nova 

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 05:33 PM

View Postwalleyeshark, on 13 June 2012 - 04:21 PM, said:

Well, a big TY to y'all as you have helped me with many an issue over the years!!! I'm no "techie" by any means but by following all of your directions and listening to your input, I've "out done" myself!! Hey Mjd, I read what you said about having a pro look at it but is that "small switch" something I could try fixing myself????



Usually the switch is integrated in the jack/connector for the adapter. I have run across hundreds that have been ripped right off the board and the only fix I like to do is to repair it and do it in a manner such that it won't happen again. This fix involves getting a replacement connector/switch and putting it on a short pigtailed lead so that the connector is outside the case and can't get jammed again. Forgetful users most often forget it's plugged in and pick it up and try to walk away. One user, an over the road (OTR) long haul truckdriver kept jamming his into the windshield when he braked. The pig tail solved the problem but it took some patching on the MOBO as he actually fractured the board. It takes a good tech and a strong magnifier to check out the board and connector. The severe case is when the board can't be repaired and the whole MOBO needs replacement. Expensive.

This post has been edited by mjd420nova: 13 June 2012 - 05:34 PM

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#33 User is offline   walleyeshark 

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 06:23 AM

Hey all...I was looking at batteries on Amazon...I forgot how many there are to choose from! Any suggestions on which batteries are better? I definitely won't be purchasing the same battery that's been giving me my recent troubles, allegedly!!!!
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#34 User is offline   walleyeshark 

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 09:02 AM

Hey all...I need to order a battery today but I was trying to figure out the difference between a 6 cell and a 9 cell battery???? In my mind, I'm thinking a 9 cell is better cuz it has more cells, no (lol)??? They don't seem to vary in price much so really, what's the difference?? TY
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#35 User is offline   LiveBrianD 

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 10:39 AM

A 9-cell battery typically has more capacity than a 6-cell one.
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#36 User is offline   JimH443 

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 11:52 PM

I've gotta go with mjd on this one - the problem is not the battery, but the AC jack on the laptop. It doesn't hurt to buy a battery, but don't expect it to solve the problem. That being said... if you're going to buy a battery, find the cheapest one you can.

This post has been edited by JimH443: 14 June 2012 - 11:53 PM

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#37 User is offline   walleyeshark 

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 06:30 AM

Well, I ordered a new battery and if that's the problem, great! If not, I'll have a spare battery, which is ok. The more I think about this, the more I agree with you guys that it's the ac jack. I really don't have a "go to guy" for computer's. Would the "Geek Squad" at Best Buy be able to fix the ac jack at a reasonable price???
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#38 User is offline   LiveBrianD 

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 09:42 AM

Geek Squad is an absolute joke from what I've heard - they're not knowledgeable at all. Yeah... are they the same ones who set up conflicting static IPs on the computers in Best Buy? (Why don't they just use DHCP?) Or the ones who don't know to use wireless channels 1 and 11 (NOT the default of 6) to avoid conflicts?
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#39 User is offline   walleyeshark 

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 12:00 PM

Yeah, that's what I've heard! The only other choice I seem to have is to pick someone out of the darn newspaper lol!! I'm hoping it really is the battery and I won't have to make that choice...
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#40 User is offline   waldojim 

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Posted 17 June 2012 - 04:00 PM

Ok, I will start by stating that with the last 3 notebooks I have torn apart (X100e, W520, and Acer Aspire 1), there does not appear to be a switch. I suspect, this is a logical unit now on the motherboards. I would also suggest this due to the way charging circuits are handled these days. I can safely make this observation based on the connector design, and number of leads (2 leads = insufficient for the switching discussed here). As most machines are moving to Li-Ion, and the need for better charging management, I suspect this newer design is far more common these days.

As to the issue here, there are many things that may be going on.
1. The battery contacts are dirty, or broken. Not all of them are used for power. Your battery may well be completely charged, and the contacts reporting that charge working correctly. That does NOT mean the LOAD contacts are working correctly. The traces MJD mentioned could easily be damaged on the motherboard at this stage as well, and is slightly more common as they are typically directly connected.

2. Your battery firmware may be bad. Sadly, I have limited knowledge regarding battery firmware, but understand this, your battery has an internal computer of sorts that monitors and regulates charging, and discharging. Should the software for it become corrupt (there are viruses that TARGET batteries), then the battery would not work.

3. You could have a bad cell in the battery, when a load is placed on it, it shorts and your system shuts down.

Now, a quick word about your battery. When you get your new one, charge it completely, and do everything you can to prevent a complete discharge. Completely draining your battery causes many nasty side effects, the most important is a chemical breakdown that will shorten the life of your battery. Basically, every time you drain your battery completely, you take another week off of its life. Typically, it is best to keep a Li-ion battery between 40 and 80 per cent charged. Don't worry about completely charging it though, as long as you are frequently exercising your battery (down to 60% and recharge), then you have nothing to worry about. Just don't STORE it at 100% (meaning leave it there for a month or more).
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