[jgv007]

I've been trying to help my Aunt with this PC problem and I thought the problem was her internal power supply because I noticed that the power supply fan wasn't running & when I touched the power supply casing, it felt cold to the touch, so I got a new power supply & I believe I installed the new power supply correctly. When I turned on the power button on the tower, after installing the new power supply, it does nothing. The power light, lights up, but doesn't even begin the process of booting up. The new power supply fan is running along with the other cooling fans. This is the exact same problem my aunt had before I replaced the old power supply. I truly believed that the old power supply was the cause of the problem & replacing it would correct the problem. Now I don't know what to do next? Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

[crazy4laptops]

can you hear the hard drive spin up? do you hear any loud clicking? does the monitor stay dark?

i wonder if the cmos/clock battery is dead...

[rgreen4]

I have the m7690y which has the same case, and it is tight. When replacing replacing or installing a power supply, I like to go in a certain order. The first connection I make is the main power connector (24 pins on current mother boards and power supplies), followed immediately by the 4 pin connector that connects near the CPU. Without this connector, the CPU will not have any power connection and the the compute will not run. Then basically the HD and DVD drives need the SATA/molex connectors hooked up.Then, unless you have the PMD installed or a new high end video card with a separate power connector, you should be done.

There is no LED on my motherboard, but there is on the stock power supply, but that only confirms power to the machine. You might want to disconnect each power connector and reconnect them, expecially the main and CPU connectors. With the side off, press the power button. The PSU fan and the rear case fan should come on. The CPU heat sink fan should also come on. The power light on the pwr switch should come on, the keyboard lights should come on and then go off, and the DVD light should come on and then off.

You say you replaced the PSU, where did you get the new PSU? Do you have a spare or one in an older machine?

[jgv007]

I had great dificulty unplugging the 24 pin connector because this particular model has a front panel input for connection to a TV. When I opened the case I was able to move all of drives forward & out of the way, except the drive for the TV input. I don't profess to be a computer expert by any means but I could not figure out how to move that one TV drive out of the way and that particular drive was directly above the 24 pin connector. I will admit that after a great struggle and cut up fingers, I was able to get that connector off and was able to get the new 24 pin connector attached easily. I was not aware that there was a specific order of attaching the new PCU connectors, and I made the connections at random, the 24 pin connector was the last connection I made. I got the new PSU from Trend Micro & was advertised as brand new. It was the exact model of the one I took out. With everything connected, the power light on the front panel lights up and I do not hear the hard drive spinning or doing anything, the keyboard does not light up and all the monitor displays is, no input signal. I had thought about the CMOS battery at one point but I didn't know for sure whether that would have any effect on the boot-up process. I will try to redo the connections as you suggested but what do you think about the possibilty of the CMOS battery being the problem? I do not have a spare PCU.

I appreciate all the help you can offer on this matter.

[rgreen4]

No, there is not "special" sequence to connect the power connectors. I use that sequence because the main power cable is the thickest and most difficult to connect, so I get it out of the way first. I then make sure the CPU power connector is connected. It is here on your MB:

!http://forums.pcworld.com/legacyimages/
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If you have an empty 4 hole connector in that position, that is the problem. If not, disconnect and then reconnect just to be sure. Now as you have discovered, the case is very cramped, and it is easier if you remove the PMD bay with the attached HD. Here is the sequence:

Ok, when you look at the front of the case like this:

!http://forums.pcworld.com/legacyimages/
1!

The Personal Media Drive (PMD) bay should be on the left, and the front audio/video connections should be on the right.

The main hard drive is mounted on tabs underneath the PMD bay. That is probably what you are encountering when you try to remove/replace the main power connector, as the front panel audio/video panel does not intrude into the case interior.

First, after removing the left side panel, locate the three small tabs holding the front panel in place. Ease them up and forward slightly and carefully ease that edge of the front panel forward. Once you have the left side tabs of the front panel loosened, you can ease it out a bit more and carefully ease the front panel off of the case. Do this carefully, do not force as the case parts are very very difficult to find.

Then, you will notice a metal tab attached to the PMD bay between the PMD bay and front audio/video IO panel. Remove the two screws holding that panel in place. Then you will notice a combination power and signal connector going into the back of the PMD bay. Squeeze the tabs and remove this connector from the bay. Next pull up on the green tab and move the PMD bay forward an inch or so to gain easier access to the back of the hidden HD under the PMD bay.

!http://forums.pcworld.com/legacyimages/
1!

While this diagram shows releasing the latch for the lower optical bay, the release for the PMD bay is right under his hand and works the same.

Once the HD signal and power cables are removed, the PMD bay can now be removed. This will provide access to the main power connector and the floppy signal connector (though there is no room for a floppy in the case). This is also what you will have to do to replace the HD. A second HD can be mounted flat on the bottom of the case under the last card (again very tight space). I note that your motherboard had two IDE ports in the lower corner and only two SATA connectors. Thus I assume the HD and Optical drives are IDE. This means you have more cable in a cramped case.

Do not worry about replacing the HD until you have all the electrical worked out. If there is no HD on boot, you will get an error signal on the monitor, which will actually be what you are looking for. The case fans and CPU fans should all be running at that point. Then you can shut the system down and replace the PMD Bay/HD and reassemble the case. If you are not using a PMD and do not plan to, I would simply remove the PMD cable. One connection goes to a USB connection on the motherboard and another connects to the power supply molex connector. Mine was damaged by the CPU fan so I removed it. I now connect the PMD externally. I also never replace the two screws in the front tab because the green latch holds it just fine. Ease the PMD bay almost all of the way in and then reconnect the HD cables. When they are in place, shove the PMD bay all the way home until it latches. Reboot to make sure the HD cables are properly connected and the machine boots.

If you want, you can replace the PMD USB/Power plug into the back of the bay. It is keyed and cannot be reversed. Once that is done, if you want replace the screws on the fron tab. Then carefully insert the right side tabs of the front panel into their slots and carefully rotate the case front so that the left side tabs enter their slots, and press it carefully until all three are latched in place. Replace the side panel and reboot.

These are nice cases - until you have to work in them. I have sworn several times that I am going to move all of my stuff into a new case, but never have.

If you have any problems, or the system does not boot at the proper points, post back. I have opened up my case and note it is time to do a good blowing out of dust this afternoon.

[jgv007]

I want to thank you for taking a "special" interest in correcting this problem I've been dealing with. I will follow your instructions you have given me but I can not get access to my aunt's PC for a couple of days; she is out of town & I'm sorry I didn't bring her PC to my house before she left. I'm telling you this because I may not be able to get back to you right away and let you know if the problem has been resolved. Believe me, I am a very respectful person & I would not leave hanging in limbo. As soo as I can get the PC in my possession & work on it, you will hear back from me, that's a promiss.

By the way, since you didn't mention the CMOS battery, then I presume, it is not an issue?



Thanks, Jerry

[crazy4laptops]

rgreen might not have mentioned the CMOS batt, but i have... sometimes my old desktop wouldnt boot (same symptoms as you) and i checked/replaced the cmos battery and it started right up and booted.

one q, can you hear the hard drive spin up?

[rgreen4]

crazy -

Well, to be honest, I have never encountered a machine that would not boot because of the CMOS battery. That being said, I don't know if I have ever encountered a modern (P4 or later) PC in which the CMOS battery went flat. The older machines would lose date and time and settings when the CMOS battery died, but would still boot, but newer machines have a more complex setup as well. Plus, a new CMOS battery is so inexpensive. That may be the best thing to try next, even if it is not the problem, the cost is so minor.
jgv007 -

don't worry, when you get the machine, we'll be here ready to work with you. Looking back at the HP specs, I noticed a second motherboard specifications sheet. This model has two different motherboards, one is MSI MS-7093 (it will say MS-7093 next to the video card slot. The CPU power connector is further down than on the Asus board. The photos I posted earlier were for the other board (Asus A8AE and has those letters next to the video card slot). The MSI board has 4 SATA ports, the ASUS only has 2. I was unable to find the exact CMOS battery number which means we will have to wait until you can read the model off the battery. The good news is that it should be available at any location that sells watch batteries.

[techie4fun]

@ Crazy & Rgreen,


Do we think this is a CMOS battery issue or are we simply having issues with the motherboard power? I was wondering if the culprit required a simpel plug and unplug of the motherboard power connector.

[rgreen4]

Don't really know for sure. jgv007 has replaced the PSU, but I can affirm that in this case, the main power connecter on the mobo is extremely difficult to access without partially disassembling the case. There is the possibility that when the new PSU was installed that the CPU power connector was not fully seated or the main power connector was not fully seated. I think either would keep the machine from booting. Or it could be a CMOS battery problem. That is what we will have to figure out.

[jgv007]

No, I do not hear the hard drive spin up. I'm also wondering if motherboard is bad. I still don't have access to the PC for me to check out things to do to try

and fix the problem.

[crazy4laptops]

the mobo might be the prob... but a bad hdd will definately halt a system from starting up

[rgreen4]

But, it will not keep it from clearing POST, and then at that point, you would get the message about no system found, insert disc, etc, etc,.

[crazy4laptops]

a hdd that is having power/data issues will halt a system before post

a hdd with bad smart data is somtimes enough to halt a system from even showing the bios screen

[SnyperTodd]

I've never seen either of those issues keep a system from POSTing, but if they could, one way to test it would be to pull the hard drive completely out. Not having a hard drive installed will not keep a system from getting through the POST. You'll get the error after POST, as RGreen said.

[jgv007]

Ok, I finally have the Pavilion m7300e in my possession & as far as I can see, all the connectors from the new PSU seemed to be connected properly & I did reseat them anyway. I do have a question about the "red" switch on the PSU. Is that switch supposed to be in the 115v position? Other than that, The PC is no different than when I started. IT WILL NOT BOOT! It doesn't even begin the boot process. The monitor displays "no input signal". None of the drive lights flicker when the Power button is turned on. I hear NO spinning of the Hard drive. All the fans are running.

When I look a the red switch on the PSU it looks li's set for 115v, but I don't know if that switch setting is correct. I would assume if I live in North America, that would be the correct setting?

I'll be waiting for your replys

Thanks, Jerry

[crazy4laptops]

check/reseat the power and data connector on the hard drive

if the hard drive is truly dead, then all the data on it needs expert help in recovering any essential data

and btw, your system will def not boot with a bad hdd

no input signal means the video card/mobo isnt working right

if one component is bad... sound/video/ram/drive/cpu/power/etc. the whole system stops (in most cases)

sometimes its just the lil cmos battery to stop a computer (happened to me more than once)

if you are in north america, 115v is the right switch setting

[rgreen4]

OK - I cleaned out my m7690y this afternoon (complete disassembly and blowing out and vacuuming) and had reassembled it and booted. I just went in, took off the side and disconnected the HD. It booted through the POST and when it went to the HD, I got the message I expected - "DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER". I then connected up a drive that had no system, and got the same message. I was about to post, and thought that maybe the system will detect the drive from the signal cable but without a good powere connection will react differently. So, I went back in and disconnected just the power connection and I got the same result.

When I tried to boot from a drive that had an expired Vista installation (it had not been activated, it was a test), it blue screened for an instant, then rebooted to the safe mode menu.

I was able to recreate what I think your problem is. When the power button is pressed, the blue power light in the on switch comes on as do the case fan and heat sink fan - at max speed! But, no lights on keyboard, no lights on the front of the DVD. No signal to the monitor either. The only indication that there is power is the blue light and the high speed fan noise. The cause - I unplugged the 4 pin CPU power connection.

To recap: there are 4 board level power connections, two in and two out. The two out are the case fan and heat sink fan as the computer temperature controller controls the speed of those two fans. The high speed when the 4 pin CPU power connector is disconnect is the fail safe for a fan - when the controller fails, the fans are locked to high speed. The two in are of course the 24 pin main power connector and the 4 pin CPU connection. If the main power connector were not making contact, you probably would not have a power light or fans. We either have a bad connection to the CPU power connector or a bad PSU. BTW - the connector going to the CPU connector on the MB should have two yellow and two black wires.

Can you post the brand and model of the power supply you put in the PC?

[jgv007]

I replaced the old PSU with the exact PSU that was in the PC that went bad, it is, HP 350W Power Supply 5188-2859, from Trend Micro

[rgreen4]

Humor me on this. Remove the 4 prong CPU power connector and then re-insert it until you hear the latch click. BTW - Trend Micro?
If this does not work, then you may have a bad processor on the motherboard.