Re: Which is a Better Car - FWD or RWD?
#1
Posted 26 May 2009 - 05:57 AM
And the 318i? It was in excellent shape...it just the guy I guess didn't fix a few things before trading it. Her in the city where potholes line streets like beehives...those fancy cars don't do as well. They also don't do well gainst the salt in winter...which is why many keep their nice cars garaged until good weather comes back.
AS far the other stuff...one mans garbage is another mans treasure. And my car rides pretty darn smooth....I don't have those fancy rims that you seed rug dealers use....it just simple plain aluminum alloy rims. They ride very smooth...I don't even feel ruff pavement. Maybe its my brand of tire that helps. Who knows. Its works for me.
Anyway...back on topic :-)
#2
Posted 26 May 2009 - 06:08 AM
TechieXP said:
More proof you know nothing about what you are talking about. Mercedes doesn't make the 5 and 7 series, those are BMWs.
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That was in 70s and early 80s. I grew up in Montreal and anything other than a Saab or a Subaru would rust away in two years, while those took three. That has changed.
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Its an absolute rule, the lower the profile, the stiffer the ride.
#4
Posted 26 May 2009 - 08:37 AM
#5
Posted 30 May 2009 - 03:40 PM
#6
Posted 30 May 2009 - 04:17 PM
But, the better drive for Winter , is in fact RWD. If you live in a City with
6 months of snow a year, (I think you are close,right?) , you would
appreciate the Control you have with a rear drive. Don't try to take a
snowy corner in winter with a front drive too fast or even a on a wet road,
you'll end up in ditch somewhere. Don't trust them.
Those damn things just keep on going straight. We tried
a front driver Once (a Toyota Celica) and changed it the following summer.
Have been driving rear drives since. Too costly to repair and to maintain.
FLASHORN.
#7
Posted 30 May 2009 - 04:33 PM
#8
Posted 30 May 2009 - 04:50 PM
You're going to need driving lessons LOL !! We don't have a car
except for the Shelby. A Ford Explorer is what we use year round
with tires to match the season. I rarely have to use the four by in
Winter. I am constantly seeing people swirving and stopping in
the middle of the intersctions. All those little boxes with grocery
cart wheels attatched to the frame makes me stay away as far as
possible from them in Winter. There not that much better in Summer
either. But , to some extent , I agree that , what's behind the steering
wheel is very scary sometimes.
FLASHORN.
#9
Posted 30 May 2009 - 05:09 PM
However, a 4WD or AWD offsets this by splitting the torque. Many think that a 4WD increases the torque, but that is a falsehood. What it does is split the torque between front and rear and hence actually increases the traction. I have a 3/4 ton pickup and down here many ask why. I have actually used the 4WD on the interstate during heavy rains. In a heavy rain and hence a good deal of water on the pavement, the front wheels have a tendency to hydro when pushed. Applying some torque in the rotation of those tires lessens this tendency and improves control and stability.
When I had to make my trip into the upper midwest this past January, I chose to drive my truck rather than the FWD mini-van for the extra control and traction I would have. In the snow, I needed it.
#10
Posted 30 May 2009 - 05:10 PM
#11
Posted 30 May 2009 - 05:27 PM
Imagine if all semi's were RWD..it would probably take them even longer to get up to speed. The trailer probably puts to much weight on the rear wheels...so thus the front pull the truck up to speed. The rear wheels are better for braking as they cause more drag and slow teh vehicle a lil quicker...However if your rear wheels spin out of control it is harder to control a skid. At leats with front wheel drive the wheels will pull the car in another direction..providing you don't lock the brakes.
#12
Posted 30 May 2009 - 05:27 PM
#13
Posted 30 May 2009 - 05:41 PM
#14
Posted 30 May 2009 - 07:28 PM
In terms of control, it is more a matter of preference and the experience of the driver. If the driver knows how to deal with RWD, then it can be pretty good...although it is harder to control due to lesser traction. The problem is that controling RWD on a slippery turn (i.e. if you start to lose control), it is a little counter-intuitive what you should do. If you know what to do and have enough experience to over come your natural reaction, then RWD can be OK.
FWD is better for control just because you can go more with your natural instincts (unless you have been trained to be used to RWD, then your natural instincts, which are really now "unnatural", will be reversed). Thus, this is why more people like and use FWD in snowy/slippery areas.
Obviously, 4WD and AWD are the best, but they present their own set of pitfalls. The biggest is that a LOT of people believe that they are invincible in their 4WD or AWD vehicle. They drive in them like nothing can happen. They don't slow down in slippery conditions, etc. But, what they neglect to understand is that if you hit a slippery section and try to stop, 4WD and AWD don't mean squat...because ALL cars/trucks are four wheel brake...but that does not matter if you wheels have no traction. 4WD and AWD strictly provide a little better traction in some situations which means you might have a little more control and generally can accelerate faster (which is usually NOT a good thing).
Here in Michigan, there is always the "retraining" period when the first snow hits. It takes usually a month or so for people to "remember" how to drive in slippery conditions. You ALWAYS see people driving way too fast in that first snow. You tend to see less of that come late December to early January.
#15
Posted 30 May 2009 - 07:38 PM
rgreen4 said:
A true 4WD system will evenly divide the power/torque to all wheels equally. If you get a wheel that slips, then it still gets 1/4 of the power. Thus, if you have 3 wheels slipping, then the 4 wheel will only be getting 1/4 of the power. In addition, a true 4WD system will "lock" the two front wheels together having them spin at the same speed. This is why you should not drive a true 4WD system on dry (aka non-slippery) pavement...as you try to turn, physics wants you outer front wheel to spin slower than your inner front wheel (it is traveling a greater distance around the turn than your inner front wheel), but because the front axle is locked, it cannot. Thus, you get the "hopping" effect and you can damage the drive system.
Now, there are "full time" 4WD systems that will have slip differential systems that will allow slip between the outer and inner wheels. If you have a "part time" 4WD system, then you should NOT be driving in 4WD mode unless you KNOW it is slippery. Thus, if your truck was had "part time" system, then drive with it engaged in the rain could have been a less than optimal choice. Yes, it might have helped when the water was enough to cause some potential hydroplaning issues, but you could also have been stressing or damaging the drive system when you were NOT slipping and had full traction. And this is why a lot of vehicles these days have "auto-sensing/shifting" 4WD systems.
An AWD system can distribute power/torque to the wheel(s) that are not slipping. Thus, with the most advanced AWD systems, you can have three wheels that slip and ALL the power can go to the forth wheel. There are a lot of systems that are labelled as 4WD that are actually technically an AWD system.
#16
Posted 30 May 2009 - 09:10 PM
The reason you are advised not to drive a 4WD vehicle on dry pavement (and this only really applies to speeds above 25 MPH) is the center section which is in the transfer case had no differential if it is a part-time system. A full time system does have a differential in the transfer case. I had a 1989 Jeep Cherokee with a dual system. In the lever was all the way forward, you were in 2 High. If you pulled the lever back into the first postition it was in 4 High FT (full time), the next detent was 4 High PT, then neutral and finally, 4 Low. Four Low is an underdrive gear usually about 2.73 to one, sort of like Granny Low. Taking into account the first gear ratio, the differential ratio and then the 4Lo ratio, I have seen some vehicles with an accumulated 69:1 total gear reduction. It's amazing what you can pull with that.
If you want a real locking differential, you can get one from ARB (actually the initials of the founder Tony Brown) an Australian 4WD accessory manufacturer. These differentials replace the normal ones and are actuated by air pressure to lock the two wheels on an axle together. Needless to say that when the diffs are locked, you are physically unable to turn the vehicle. You can get one for the front axle, the rear axle, or both for most serious 4WD off road vehicles. Many times in articles they are just called "air lockers". The air pressure is provided by a small air compressor mounted on the vehicle, and a switch on the dash controls a solenoid to control the air flow to the lockers.
Up until the mid '90's, most 4WD systems had locking hubs and a lever on the floor to engage the transfer case. Then the non-locking (full time) hubs became common, but the axle stub many time had a vacuum solenoid to lock the front axles shafts. My '90 Dodge was like that as well as all subsequent 4WD trucks. Then the dash mounted switch for the transfer case became more common. All of mine have had the "short stick" however.
My current Dodge 2500 is my sixth 4WD vehicle and in addition to the part time 4WD transfer case has a limited slip differential in the rear. However, since the mid '80's, I have had several "vehicles" with real mechanical locking differentials, in the form of compact tractors. On them you step on the lever to lock the rear diff and it stays locked until you take the pressure off. When you forget and try to turn it, it reminds you in a hurry by not turning.
#17
Posted 30 May 2009 - 09:17 PM
#18
Posted 30 May 2009 - 11:06 PM
#19
Posted 31 May 2009 - 08:55 AM
#20
Posted 01 June 2009 - 12:34 AM
mjd420nova said:
To my knowledge, it is not because road salt has been "re-engineered"...road salt is road salt...to my kwowledge, it all has a negative charges Cl which creates the problems.
The change is in the rust protection that is done to cars these days. It is much better than what used to be...what used to be was basically nothing...rust protection was pretty much non-existant a couple decades ago.
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